Travel in the time of COVID

I admit it; exploring Utah was my idea.  All four kids’ original summer plans had been cancelled, replaced with virtual internships and work-from-home realities.  And we had the privilege of being able to go.  It was too tempting not to take advantage of the opportunity to go somewhere together.  Staying in the US was a necessity.  Data on National Park re-openings and cell coverage for Zoom calls directed us to Utah.  

Overall, it was a great trip – ten days of outdoor activities, world-class sights, 1400 miles in a trusty minivan, and no fights among more mature 20-somethings.  Playlists curated by the boys with themes of sunshine, country and show tunes.  Alex able to work remotely.  Dad jokes.  Only moderate eye rolls when mom wanted a family photo or selfie.  Although coronavirus affected our behavior daily.  

Rates of infection in Utah started spiking as we were packing.  Living in Massachusetts where cases were dropping and masks were ubiquitous, southern Utah was a bit of a shock.  It was like going back in time to April, but with more information.  But that wasn’t the only wrinkle. We had planned to show the kids the Grand Canyon and had reservations in the newly reopened lodge on the North Rim.  Sadly, the Mangum Fire is tearing through that area of Arizona, consuming over 70,000 acres and is yet uncontained almost one month later.  Less resolute travelers might have been deterred by the virus and the fire, but we just tweaked our plans and pressed onward.

First stop Park City where dear friends the Polers provided amazing accommodations right on Main Street.  The air was crisp.  The sun was shining.  There was plenty of outdoor action to get us going.  Thanks to input from friend Cheryl Faillace, we headed toward Mirror Lake on our first day to hike the Lofty Lake Loop.  Although we should have known better, we made several mistakes.  1) The drive was about 90 minutes each way, not 30.  2) The hike started at 10,000 feet of altitude, which was tough on the first day when coming from sea level, not to mention that warmer clothes might have been advantageous.  3) Although I had read the summary of the hike, I didn’t focus on the fact that it was a 3-4 hour hike with 1000 feet of elevation change; didn’t have enough water or snacks.  4) Snow was still on the trail in some parts, and we hadn’t downloaded the entire route on Alltrails, so we were flying a bit blind.  Despite the challenges, the hike was filled with gorgeous vistas, mountain lakes, and wildflowers.  A great start to the trip and site of our first family photo. 

Day two was another epic walk, entirely downhill.  Chairlifts at the ski resorts were all still closed due to COVID, but the tram to the top of Snowbird was running, albeit with masks required and only 25 people for a space that usually holds 100.  Barrels of water provided ballast against swaying…ingenious.   The view at the top was spectacular, and we challenged ourselves to walk the 2-hours down to the base.  Scrambling over remaining snow on the road and sliding down a few snowy parts of hills, we were rewarded with constant views.

Our final full day in Park City including morning mountain biking in Round Valley; an afternoon at the Utah Olympic Park for a timed two-hour slot of extreme zip-lining, alpine slide and tubing down the ski jump landing area; and per the boys request, a stop at the Escape Room Park City.  A good mix of physical and mental.  All with plenty of hand washing, sanitizer and masks.

While half of us were sleeping or working (or both), Emma, Greg and I spent our last morning in northern Utah on the Bloody Lake Trail surrounded by aspens and cedar trees.  Greg taught us that stands of aspens are interconnected underground and thus constitute the largest organisms on Earth. 

Arriving 5 hours later in Springdale, we realized that southern Utah would be different COVID-wise.  Our hotel was shutting the next morning because several employees had tested positive.  Maskless visitors were everywhere.  We weren’t in Park City or Massachusetts anymore.  We resolved to make the best of it and keep ourselves as safe as possible – maximizing outdoor time, finding a multi-bedroom suite at the most expensive hotel, and constantly hand sanitizing.  It was worth the effort. 

Zion National Park lives up to expectations; it is spectacular.  Our unexpected win was finding the gates open on our first evening, so we drove the entire length of the Scenic Drive with virtually no one around.  COVID has stopped the park shuttle buses and the US had blocked thousands of international tourists.  It was like our personal park.  Cliffs soaring 1000 feet above us.  Reds, ochres, pinks, whites, punctuated by green vegetation.  All in the late evening light.  Gorgeous.

Over the next 2 days, we experienced the best of Zion.  We rode ebikes to the Temple of Sinawava and the start of the Narrows, where we hiked several miles through the tumbling waters of the Virgin River.  Beautiful site but crowded; we picked our way around boulders and other tourists.  

The next morning, we took a different approach, rising before dawn to walk to Observation Point from the East Rim.  The trail from the canyon floor is closed due to rock slides, but hikers can walk to the literal edge of the cliff from the top.  Unbelievably beautiful, especially as the only ones there.  Glad that I didn’t have any young kids to shoo away from the edge which has absolutely no safety barrier to the 1000 foot drop!  

Balancing the kids’ need for Zoom connections, we started our drive up Route 12, touted as one of the most beautiful drives in the US.  We agree!  Our stops along the way:

• Bryce Canyon:  18-mile scenic drive with parking to get out and see the various amphitheaters.  Hoodoos by sunset and sunrise from Inspiration Point.  A hike down to the canyon floor on the Queen/Navajo trails and up through Wall Street.  
• Escalante:  Devil’s Garden, 10-miles down the unpaved Hole in the Rock Road (about all our minivan could handle… the slot canyons were another 17 miles down). 
• Driving Hogsback section of Grant Staircase- Escalante National Monument
• Boulder:  detour to the deserted Singing Canyon slot canyon
• Torrey:  Capitol Reef National Park and its natural bridge

Plus a dozen overlooks where would stop to appreciate a new jaw-dropping vista.  We avoided a few spots, like Calf Creek Falls, which were overrun with people.  A shame to miss, but not worth the risk.

At the end of Route 12, we pulled into the Capitol Reef Resort, where I had booked one of the more unique accommodations in our travels as a family – a replica Conestoga wagon that actually slept all 6 of us!  Let’s just say it was good it was only one night.  Although sitting out by the (propane) campfire as the sun set on the red cliffs of the Capitol Reef National Park was pretty sweet. 

As our original plans ended at the Grand Canyon, we had decided to fly out of Las Vegas.  So we had the chance to show 3 of the kids The Strip (Alex has already been for work several times).   Wow, is it more built up than 1996 when I was last there.  No stops as Las Vegas is also a big COVID hotspot; just right to the airport. 

Overall, I am glad that we had this time together.  We have explored so much of the world, it was wonderful to experience such beauty in our own country.  Although coronavirus did cast a shadow everywhere.  I feel for people who rely on tourism, like our hosts at the Escape Room or the owner of the Slot Canyons Inn.  Business is down dramatically; interactions are stilted behind masks.  Everyone is doing their best, but we are all dreaming of normalcy.  All part of travel in the time of COVID. 

Record of specific logistics

• Park City:  Restaurants The Blind Dog, Tekila, Firewood .
• Zion:  Cable Mountain (Lodge in park has no WIFI). Restaurant The Bit and Spur.
• Bryce:  Best Western (Stone Canyon Inn was full and way down the hill; Lodge in park had minimal WIFI). Tough restaurant choices.
• Escalante:  Slot Canyons Inn.  Restaurant Circle D.
• Boulder: Unfortunately, Hells Backbone Grill was closed.  Fortunately, Magnolia’s Street Food was open!
• Torrey:  Capitol Reef Resort.  Restaurant Rim Rock, CastleRock Coffee